Ever since I heard about Su:m 37’s Centenica 1909 Cream on Hope In a Blog, I’ve wanted to try it. Taking the concept of fermentation in skincare to a new level, Centenica cream touts Château d’Yquem wine and aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena among its ingredients. What fancy wine and balsamic vinegar can do for my face from the outside I don’t know, but the ridiculousness and price tag intrigued me. I am, after all, the person who brought the term “skincaretainment” to the attention of the English-speaking kbeauty fandom (not to be confused with “skintertainment,” which I’m convinced is a code name for porn).
Eventually the fanserviced warchest (the blog earns commission due to ads and affiliate links, my job is to turn that money into amusement/information for me and you–ideally what results is blogging alchemy) allowed me to splash out on a sample jar of this curious, somewhat culinary creation.
My test jar
I bought my 5ml sample jar on eBay for $31.34 from a US seller with great ratings who offered free shipping. 5ml…is not a lot. I have a giant face and slather on my products and I think I’ve managed to get 7 uses total out of this cream. My sample jar came in a tiny replica container with a super nice box, but it did not include a similarly tiny spatula.
How to use it
I use this as a night cream–applied at the end of my routine before bed, after all of my other skincare steps. For more info about product order check out my skincare routine visual guide.
Is it good?
No joke, this cream feels great. I’ve tried the similarly over-the-top pricey Ohui First Geniture Cream and found it to be way too heavy for my normal-to-oily skin, but this was the right sort of buttery-thickness-that-still-sinks-into-my-skin to work as a night cream. My attempt to wear it during the day under makeup led to a lot of shine (rather than glow, which I of course prefer). If this cream were more affordable (I’d pay $50 for 50ml of this), I’d probably own and regularly use a jar. As my friend Fiddy pointed out, moisturizers need to moisturize–despite ridiculous claims, there’s only so much they can do.
The cream, to me, has a pleasantly traditional medicine and woodsy scent, cranked up to a modern 11.
Korean ingredient list:
English ingredient list:
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Triethylhexanoin, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Squalane, Isostearyl Isostearate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Extract, Panthenol, Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Water Hyacinth Ferment, Lactobacillus/Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Thymus quinquecostatus var. japonica leaf extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract, Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Millet Extract, Glechoma Hederacea Extract, Platycodon Grandiflorum Root Extract, Acer Palmatum Leaf Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Melissa Officinalis Extract, Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Allium Sativum (Garlic) Bulb Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Daikon Extract, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Apple Extract, Morus Bombycis Leaf Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract [repeated], Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract [repeated], Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract [repeated], Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract [repeated], Apple Extract [repeated], Morus Bombycis Leaf Extract [repeated], Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract [repeated], Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Leaf Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Brassica Rapa (Turnip) Leaf Extract, Spinacia Oleracea (Spinach) Leaf Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata (Cabbage) Leaf Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Houttuynia cordata extract, Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Plantago Major Seed Extract, Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Akebia Quinata Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Crataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract, Grifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract, Prunus Salicina Fruit Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Geranium Robertianum Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Corthellus Shiitake (Mushroom) Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Powder, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Flower Extract, Populus Nigra Bark/Bud/Leaf/Twig Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Vinegar, Wine Extract, Honey Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, C14-22 Alcohols, Phytosqualane, Glyceryl Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysilicone-11, Glycosphingolipids, Ceramide 3, Arachidyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Lecithin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables, Lactobacillus Ferment, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Phytosphingosine, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Carbomer, Cholesterol, Beta-Glucan, Ferric Oxide, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Trisodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Fragrance. [translated–painfully–by me, please do not copy and paste elsewhere, thanks~~]
The Korean ingredient list, literally the only ingredient list I could find anywhere, comes from a Gmarket sale page. First off, this pisses me off about Su:m 37 to no end: when I’ve bought Su:m 37 products in the past, unless I’m blessed by the gods and they’re listed in the Hwahae ingredient app, the only way I’ve found out wtf is in the product is by opening up the box and translating the ingredient list on the info pamphlet. The Su:m 37 website is zero help. New products aren’t added to Hwahae or Allofcosmetics immediately. This means loads of buying blind (or just not buying because wtf I’d like to know what’s in the products). Centenica Cream was released over six fucking years ago and to the best of my knowledge this right here is the first English ingredient list for it ever. And it’s based on third-party info because I’m not spending $800 to get the piece of paper with the Korean ingredient list. I just added the ingredients for the first time to CosDNA. Merely adding ingredient lists–Korean is fine! no need to translate!–to the Su:m 37 Korean website like every other freaking brand out there would do a lot to remedy the problem and encourage sales.
That said, if this list were widely circulated would too many people laugh at the LG chaebol’s new clothes?
If I were to just look at the ingredient list for Centenica Cream, I’d think it was no more than a $50 cream. The vast majority of the ingredients are so utterly normal. Water, glycerin, dipropylene glycol? Dimethicone, the stuff used in makeup primers to fill in wrinkles and pores? Don’t get me wrong, these are all good ingredients, but they’re also ingredients that show up in vastly cheaper products. VASTLY cheaper.
What I can’t do is shade this product based on where things show up in the ingredient list–as I demonstrated last year, one small difference in Korean FDA cosmetic ingredient order regulations means that ingredients don’t appear from most to least concentrated on Korean cosmetics labels. You literally cannot read a Korean ingredient list as you would one from the US–you’ll be making all sorts of wrong assumptions that give false advantage to Korean products. That said, I did also show that fancy extracts that customers prize tend to be listed much higher on Korean ingredient lists than they would be on US FDA-compliant lists. The fact that the much-touted vinegar and wine extract, presumably the aceto balsamico di Modena and Chateau d’Yquem, appear so late in this list makes me laugh. I’m imagining a micro drop of each in each bottle of $800 cream. Ok, I’m going to shade that a little.
Eat and drink [fancy wine and balsamic vinegar, if you like them] joyfully, smile often, wear sunscreen, and don’t overspend on face cream.
Cheaper Creams that I Like and Use
I’ve loved this super light, but moisturizing gel-cream for ages–check out my review.
This cream hydrates really well, but leaves my skin with a smooth base for makeup that’s not too dewy–check out my friend Snow’s review of it.
This cream is what I actually use these days to blast my skin with goodness all night; it’s loaded with amazing, proven extracts and saves my skin even on days I’ve overexfoliated and have dry skin. I promise that I’ll finally review it soon!
Where to buy Su:m 37 Centenica 1909 Cream
Full size (50ml, but check listings carefully before buying to make sure that’s the size you’re getting and that it’s coming in the original bottle rather than a billion sample packets): Amazon | eBay | TesterKorea | KoreaDepart
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